The Tao of Entropia

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TAO 02.png


Welcome, new Colonists. This guide is designed with new players in mind, as well as my future disciples (send a PM if you're interested). At it's core is a philosophy of playing. Not a new philosophy - the intent is not to write something revolutionary and groundbreaking. Rather the opposite, in fact. The main idea behind it will be that of economic playing (as most people call it), or efficient playing, as I prefer to call it.

In other words, the fine art of maximizing your gains by minimizing your expenses. It’s definitely not a get rich quick scheme. It could be something along the lines of a get rich slow scheme, but one can never truly promise that the ‘get rich’ part will actually ever come. Perhaps "A PEC saved is a PEC earned" fits best.

That is, actually, one of the first myths that need to be dispelled from the minds of any new players. Will you be able to get rich, or even make a comfortable living out of playing a videogame with a real cash economy? Let’s get that out of the way, then. No, odds are, you won’t. You see, while we are dealing with a real cash economy here, you should think of it more in terms of “Will I be able to get my investment back if I decide to stop playing?”.

You see, in most games, your time and money spent is gone for good - be it microtransactions or subscription fees, paid expansions, whatever. If you've played MMOs for a while, and ended up here, odds are you at some point wished you could have had something to show for it, or to be able to get your money back (or part of it) after being microtransactioned halfway to bankruptcy. Well, here you can get some of it back if one day you decide to quit, and with some luck, even a little more than that. No buyers remorse, at least not if you play it efficiently.

Sure, a few people have managed to get vastly wealthy, and a considerable number of others managed to make an income out of it, but that is a handful of players in a playerbase of millions. Could it happen to you? Yes. But never go in expecting to be the exception. Thinking that way will lead to unnecessary risks - you will deposit more, because you’re sure that, as you are an exception, that extra fat All Time High worth hundreds of thousands of dollars is just a few kills away. And, while it might actually be, you should never think in those terms.

When people think like that, they tend to be more willing to take big risks, as they are thinking of the huge potential rewards, and since those rewards are the exception, not the rule, following that path you are likely to lose a large part of your deposits, eventually getting frustrated, and quit the game never to return.

Instead, my goal here will be to guide you down the other path - the path where you consider yourself part of the majority. Think of yourself as average, and consider that the result of your in-game activities will be equally average. If you understand that, you’ll soon conclude that, since your returns will be average, the best way to increase those returns will be to minimize your expenses. Instead of going on a hunt with a huge, expensive and uneconomical gun and the best armor you have, you should tailor your equipment according to your target.

If you prefer, look at it this way: You cannot control your return (as the result of loot, mining finds, and crafting is fairly random - superstitions aside) but you can control your expenses, and how much you're wasting.

To better illustrate the point, let’s consider a hypothetical regular MMO, without a real cash economy. Let’s say you’re heading to a forest to hunt low-level turkeys. Now, you can easily kill those turkeys with, say, a couple shots of a slingshot, or a single shot of a rocket launcher that would be more suited to higher level enemies. On a regular MMO, you would simply bring whatever your most damaging weapon and most protective armor, and not think twice about it.

That simply does not work in Entropia. Each shot of the super powerful rocket launcher is costing you money - actual, real money. Each hit your armor takes is also costing you actual, real money. And what you get in loot from each of the poor harmless turkeys would be unlikely to ever cover your expenses when killing them with a rocket launcher.

All that, of course, is still far away in the future if you’re just starting out, so let’s get back to basics and guide you thru the regular progression of the game. There’s a lot to be done before you’re actually able to start hunting (or mining, or crafting) properly, and even a couple of steps are recommended before the dreaded "Sweating" period - when you will extract a substance called "Vibrant Sweat" from enemies in order to sell it to other players to be able to afford ammo and weaponry to actually kill stuff with (or the tools of your particular chosen trade).

Another clarification that is necessary for players that have some experience on other MMOs is that progression in the game will be much slower than your average themepark MMO. Actually, the closest game I've personally played, in terms of progression, would be EvE Online. If the idea that you'll need at least a year or two to be able to properly tackle "high level" content bothers you, Entropia is probably not for you. Here, patience is key, and progression is meaningful, but slow, unlike your run-of-the-mill MMO, where progression is quite meaningless and the "actual gameplay", so to speak, is limited to endgame content, where everyone has pretty much everything maxed.

In Entropia, no one has everything maxed, and there is no ceiling (that I know of) - you'll get skills no matter what level you are - or rather, aren't, as players don't actually have 'levels' in the strict sense on Entropia - the closest being Professional Level, which is only a measure of your proficiency on a particular group of skills.

Finally, it's also important to point out that progression isn't tied up to quests in Entropia. At it's core, it's a sandbox game - that means you can jump in and pretty much do anything you want (tho you may not do it well if you don't have the appropriate skills yet). The quests that you get at the beginning are meant only as a tutorial of sorts, to help you learn the main aspects of gameplay, to give you some small rewards to let you experience those aspects (combat, mining, crafting, vehicles) and to get you to explore a little bit and get acquainted to the main areas of the planet. After that, you don't need to follow the quests.

That's why some quests require you to kill such a large number of enemies of the same type - it's not a sign that it's a grindy MMO. The quest rewards are just a bonus for things you would do anyway, and you should avoid, for example, hunting 10000 puny creatures just because there's a quest for it. The rewards for those quests are, for the most part, meant to be used only when you're at a much higher level. They come mainly in the form of attribute points, and it's relatively easy to get to level 50 on any given attribute (except stamina) by normal gameplay. It gets progressively slower, and the part where it really slows down to a crawl is between 90 and 100. That's the point when killing 10000 of something for one attribute point makes sense, not when everything is at level 10, and if you complete quests just for the sake of completing them (other than the starting quests), you'll end up regretting it.

Instead, you should (of course) take the quests, but not work actively towards completing them - if you feel like hunting Atroxes on any given day, then by all means, go and hunt Atroxes, and consider the quest to kill 1000-10000 of 'em as a bonus. Remember: it's a sandbox MMO - that means that generally speaking, you don't need quests to follow the storyline (it unveils in the form of events and you'll read all about it on the site, on the forums or on the launcher) nor to progress thru the game. What you do inside the game is entirely up to you. I realize that this unusual degree of freedom can be a bit overwhelming to players that are used to the formula of themepark MMOs, but it's one of the characteristics that set Entropia Universe apart from pretty much every other game on the market.

Game UI[edit]

The very first thing you should familiarize yourself with is the game's graphical user interface (or GUI) - that is, the buttons, screen elements such as your health bar, radar and chat window and, of course, the controls to interact with the game.

To start with, press G. You should see a keyboard on your screen, showing what each key does. But that is not all! By clicking on the small icon on the top-right of the keyboard (outlined below), or pressing L by default, you can open the edit panel, allowing you to simply drag-and-drop anything into any key, or onto the screen itself, creating a button. It is truly one of the most easily customizable interfaces of any game I've played - and I've played a fair bit of 'em.

Keyboard Map.png

You can drag weapons and tools from your inventory directly into the buttons, and they will be equipped (if they're not yet equipped) or used (if they are) when you press that button. Simple, isn't it? But that's not all. You can also assign pretty much any game command to any key by pressing L (by default) and opening the Action Library book, as seen below. With the Action Library opened, you can type to search for any command, emote, etc. in the game, and drag it to the keyboard or to an empty space on the screen. If you miss the 'action bars' of other MMOs, fear not - by dragging buttons onto the screen they'll automatically 'snap' together, making entirely customizable action bars.

By default, your Function keys (F1 to F9) will change your current layout, allowing you to have a total of 9 completely different screen/keyboard layouts that you can access quickly by pressing the respective keys. Take note that any changes you make will only be saved for that particular layout, and will not carry over to other layouts. If you want the '1' key to always be assigned to the loot command regardless of which layout you're currently using, you'll have to change that key on all 9 layouts first.

Now, let's assign some pretty basic, but important, commands to some keys of your choice. First, let's start with "Toggle Auto-Use Tool". Go ahead and assign it to a key on the keyboard. We'll do the same with the VSE Mk. I (from the Tools tab in your inventory) and the commands "Select Next Target" and "Loot"

After that, we are done. With those commands easily accessible on your keyboard (or screen, if you prefer clicking) you're ready to start sweating. If you still have a weapon and some ammo, you can also do the same with your weapon. Now, take a look at the status bar, usually at the bottom of your screen:

Status Bar.png

The Toggle Auto-Use Tool command will automatically use whatever tool or weapon currently equipped (that is, showing in your hands and on the status bar at the bottom of the screen) whenever the reload bar gets filled. This is particularly handy with tools such as the Resource Extractor for mining and the VSE Mk. I for sweating, since they often require long, repetitive use and, more importantly, will not be used when their targets are gone, in the case of the resource extractor, or when their targets can no longer be sweated, in the case of the VSE Mk. I. You can still use it for firing weapons - as long as you have an enemy selected and a weapon equipped, toggling Auto-Use will automatically get you in range and line of sight to the enemy, and then automatically fire at it. Shooting dead creatures no longer consumes ammo and decay (thanks to jqkill from Planet Calypso forums for pointing that out), but its targeting is much, much worse than manually aiming. You can still manually aim (to enter or leave aim mode, press the space bar), which provides better accuracy to hit at maximum range. Try to remember that overkill, as we’ll cover later in the combat section, is very wasteful and will worsen your returns considerably - try to use a finisher, whenever possible (this does not apply to hunting with the starter weapons, such as the Kiwio Mk II). You can also auto-use healing tools, with similar downsides - you may waste decay on overhealing - so try to remember that you still need to pay attention to what you're doing regardless of toggling auto-use on.

The Loot command will attempt to loot whatever you have targeted (or, if nothing is targeted, whatever is under your mouse). It's not a very smart command - if you attempt to loot an enemy that is still alive, you'll first walk over to it, so keep that in mind.

The Select Next Target command will automatically target the nearest valid target for your currently equipped tool. This one is pretty smart - it will target enemies when you have the VSE Mk. I or a weapon equipped, it will select players when you have a healing tool equipped, and it will select resource nodes when you have an excavator equipped. The only tricky thing is that it checks for visibility, and will often not target something that is in range but behind a tree, rock, hill, etc.

Edit Panel.png

If you want to get rid of a button assigned to the screen or to the keyboard, you can enter edit mode and drag the icon to the trash can, shown below, or alternately, right-click the icon and choose the command "Move to the trash can". Now we're set to start sweating, right? Well, almost... first, there's an important decision to be made.

To Deposit or Not to Deposit[edit]

That is the big question, isn't it?

You should ask it early, because it will impact the next stage of your career to some extent. I don't really recommend depositing before you get at least a few hours of sweating done. With that being said, a very small deposit (100 PED or so), just enough to get a Sollomate Kiwio Mk II and some Rookie Weapon Cells from the Trade Terminal, under the New Arrivals section, will make your life much easier.

In the end, it all depends on personal preference, but there are three possible 'brackets' of depositing when first starting to play the game. As pointed out by robotech master on his guide there's a scale between Time Spent and Money Spent. The more you're willing to deposit, the faster you'll progress. Conversely, the more time you're willing to spend sweating or doing other activities to earn free PEDs, such as doing surveys and crowd sourcing tasks, the less you'll have to spend. Keep in mind that it may take days to acquire, say, 100 PEDs that way, rather than spending 10 US Dollars (or Euros, depending on where you live). It is still possible to play entirely for free, but you'll need to be extremely patient. That would be the first bracket, the non-depositor route.

The second bracket is the small deposit, which for the purpose of this guide, will be the equivalent of 100 to 150 PEDs, and the non-depositors will have this as their first goal. With that, a starting player should promptly acquire the following:

The remaining PEDs will be used to acquire ammo once you run out, and for repairing the Vivo T1 when needed. The refiner will be used to refine loot (mainly Wools and Leathers) that you acquire hunting (or, at this stage, swunting, more on that on the next section). It will also be used for refining ores and enmatters found thru mining, which will be covered later.

The third bracket, and a future goal for both the non-depositor and the small depositor, is the large deposit. We will consider that as 500 PEDs or more, and will only include two additional items, a flying vehicle and fuel for it - mostly for convenience. Both will be (most likely) purchased via Auction, so if you fall into this bracket, skip ahead to the relevant section and then come back:

  • Sleipnir Mk1 (C, L) - from the Auction or other players. At the time of this writing, the cheapest on auction costing 33 PED
  • Oil - from the Auction, other players, or mining, total of 10 PED

Why, you might ask, did I choose those particular values for the second and third brackets? Simple. The average MMO player is used to either pay for a game (~60 USD, third bracket) or downloading it for free (first bracket). Then, after acquiring the game, the average MMO player will either play for free (first bracket), pay for microtransactions for convenience (anywhere between second and third brackets) or pay a small monthly fee (second bracket).

That way, we covered all the 'usual' initial payments that players are used to investing into their entertainment. Of course, one could, for example, invest LARGE amounts of money into buying skills, or setting up a trading operation, or investing in a land area, but that is not the average player, and therefore, not our target audience, tho hopefully they'll also find something of use in this guide.

Next, lets get sweaty!

Sweating your way to the top[edit]

Sweating is actually very simple, and it will be your main activity for quite a while. Mostly, you'll target an enemy, preferably a Puny creature (L1 Caudatergus Puny, L1 Berycled Puny, L1 Tripudion Puny - assuming you're on Calypso) and keep Auto-Using the VSE Mk.I until the message "You cannot acquire more sweat from this creature" shows up on the chat window. Change targets, rinse, repeat.

First, lets clarify the goal of sweating. Most guides aimed at new players will recommend sweating for those that do not want to deposit as a main income. Well, this is still somewhat true, but not quite up-to-date. The current price for sweat, as of this writing, is ~1.8 PED for 1000 bottles of Vibrant Sweat. That takes an hour or two to gather if sweating in a group, and up to six hours solo. That's less than two cents of a dollar for up to six hours of work. I'm sure you can see how that would be unattractive as a career. After a while of doing this expecting to build their bankrolls after reading other guides, players usually have that light bulb moment when they realize, to quote The Big Bang Theory, that there are children in a sneaker factory in Indonesia who out-earn you, and give it up entirely. That is the wrong way to look at it.

There are a few other ways to get free PEDs faster, if you're so inclined. You should still sweat. Even if you deposit. Why? There are quite a few reasons, actually.

First and foremost, the Vibrant Sweat should actually be considered a bonus to this activity, rather than the main goal. Your main goal in sweating is to acquire free skills. You'll be getting Concentration and Evade during the whole process of sweating a creature until it's dry (particularly if you do it solo, which I recommend) and that is actually quite worth the time spent sweating, all by itself. The other way to acquire Evade for free would be to get enemies to attack you and sit there until you die, rinse, repeat. Why not sweat while doing it? See, it's a bonus.

Second, if you are depositing, or if you already have at least a weapon and some ammo from previous sweating runs, you can start swunting, that is, sweating the enemy until it's dry for the skills plus bonus sweat, and then killing it for even more skills and (not a lot of) loot. The important part here is the "not a lot of". When swunting puny creatures, you're unlikely to get enough loot to cover your costs, but if you add the value of sweat, then you'll most likely break even or perhaps profit slightly. The PED value of sweat is still not the main goal - as a new colonist, you need skills more than anything else, and while you can buy skill implant chips to speed up the process, you really shouldn't, as the more skills you have, the slower you'll progress, not to mention that bought skills do not count towards graduating as a disciple (as far as I know).

Third, sweating will teach you to value your PEDs. After you do your due diligence and sweat for a while, before wasting your PEDs on something risky or unnecessary, you will instinctively think about how long it would take to sweat the PEDs you're about to waste. This will usually save you from poor decision making and in the long run, save you a lot of money, regardless of being a depositor or a free player.

Fourth, and equally important as the first point, sweating will either teach you patience or make you quit the game. Consider it as a way to get some real-life skill points in patience. If you fail to acquire the necessary amount of patience early on, Entropia Universe will likely chew you up and spit you out. Not only because of the comparatively slow progression thru the game's content, but also because you will need to take your time before making any important decision, such as upgrading to a better weapon, climbing higher up the mob ladder, mining in an area you're unfamiliar with, moving to a different planet, and so on.

You should always make informed choices and decisions, and that involves doing a fair bit of researching before deciding on anything. You'll also often be faced with a choice between, for example, selling something fast at the Auction by undercutting everyone, and cycling your PEDs faster (more on cycling later), or taking your time to sell for a bit of extra profit. Both have their own pros and cons, and you will need to make those kinds of judgements daily during your life on Entropia. Your worst enemy, at all stages of the game, will always be yourself, so you might as well get used to facing that challenge from the get go.

So the sweating/swunting period will be your first taste of the actual game, and it's important that you take that time to build up your skills while you decide if you actually like the game. With that in mind, let's go step by step thru the whole progression of the sweating period for a non-depositor (if you deposited already, or if you do at some point, you can skip a few steps).

First, if you have nothing but your orange jumpsuits and the VSE Mk 1, you should simply equip it, target a puny creature and auto-use tool until it's dry (or until you die). Rinse and repeat. Death is actually one of the few things that are free in this game, and you'll on occasion even use it as a fast travel method (it has the same effect as pressing T to teleport to the nearest revival terminal, but without the 60 second wait).

After a while, you'll get some Evade points and start surviving long enough to consistently sweat 'em dry. It takes 10 bottles of Vibrant Sweat until a puny creature gets dry, and it's impolite to leave a dry creature wandering around alive, since the limit is 10 bottles total, not per player, so if you don't have a weapon yet, you should sweat near a body of water or a turret, and then either drown the creatures or let the turrets kill them. Both turrets and water kill creatures instantly, and creatures killed in those ways can never be looted, regardless of how much damage a player did to them first, so keep that in mind. Your main way of healing at this point will be to wait until your health naturally regenerates back to full, either between enemies or after getting killed.

After you acquire 1000 (or a multiple of 1000) bottles, you can try to sell them to other players. Buyers are usually located at one of the popular Group Sweat Camps (such as Nea's Place), Camp Icarus, or Twin Peaks. Rarely on Port Atlantis. Ask your mentor for a lift if you don't have those teleports yet, and if you don't have a Mentor yet (or your mentor seems unhelpful) try to meet one, since you'll be in more populated areas, or ask on your planet forum for one. Remember that you can always dump a mentor that you are not satisfied with, but each time you'll start at 0% to graduate (if I'm not mistaken, it takes 10000 skill points divided in any way between engineering, geology and anatomy) and conversely, your mentor can also dump you (usually if you beg for free stuff too much - it always seems like a scam). Try to get as much as you can for the sweat you gather.

At the time of this writing, the average price was 1.8 PED for each 1000 bottles, and the more bottles you have, the easier it should be to find a buyer paying that price, but it can still take a while. When you find a buyer, ask them if you can add them as a friend to sell more in the future, and if they agree, you should do so - it'll make the process of finding a buyer somewhat easier in the future.

Finally, after you save up some PEDs, 15 or so should suffice, you can start killing the puny creatures yourself. Go ahead and buy the Sollomate Kiwio Mk II and some Rookie Weapon Cells for it from any Trade Terminal. Keep on sweating, but instead of letting the creatures drown or be killed by turrets, kill them yourself. Sell to the TT any Weapon Cells and BLP Packs that you find in loot (or use 'em), but save the rest until you read the next section.

Your next goal is to have enough to buy a Vivo T1 while still keeping at least 10 or so PED of ammo with you, and replacing your Kiwio if it's broken, unless you found some Sollomate Rubio (L) or Sollomate Azuro (L) in loot - all three are pretty much interchangeable at this point. Stick to using Laser Rifles to begin with, and feel free to sell any other weapons to other players if you see anyone buying them (Lancerheads are particularly popular apparently). After you buy the Vivo, you can include it in your hotkeys and start healing instead of getting killed. It's more expensive than death, as you'll need to repair the Vivo after some hours of use at a repair terminal, but it gives valuable skill points.

Your goal at this point is to get enough skills to upgrade to a better weapon and healing tool (from now on we'll call it FAP), at which point you will no longer be limited to swunting puny creatures, but before we do that, let's talk about your loot and what to do with it.

Dealing with Loot[edit]

Now that you have some sweat and some stacks of looted items, let’s take a brief look on your options on how to turn those into PEDs.

Before we begin discussing the option, lets talk a little about Limited (L) items, Unlimited items (UL) and stackable items, market value, refining and markup. Let’s start with stackables, since they’ll be the bulk of what you’ll be getting in loot and, in turn, selling. This applies to both mining and hunting.

First, we’ll be refining a stack of Animal Hide into a stack of Generic Leather. Refined items weigh less, are usually (but not always) worth more Markup than unrefined items, and the refined stack loses no value compared to the unrefined stack. Each unit of Animal Hide is worth 0.01 PED, while Generic Leather is worth 0.03 PED. That means you need 3 Generic Leather to make 1 Animal Hide, and the net Trade Terminal value is maintained. If you refine a stack that isn’t a multiple of 3, you’ll have some Hides left over from the process – you’ll never lose any value on the refined items, no matter what you do. On the other hand, the refiner tool loses a little bit of TT value proportional to how many PEDs worth of materials it refines. That cost is largely negligible, compared to the gain in markup from refining. That’s why I recommended on the previous section that you should purchase a Refiner MR100. They’re pretty cheap, anyway.

Well, now lets take a look at the markup for each. As you can see, the average markup for the day when I took those screenshots for Generic Leather was 102.03%, compared to 101.76% on Animal Hide. It’s pretty safe to refine the common Hides and Wools. Some other stackable materials that can be refined may be worth more markup unrefined, depending on which recipes (if any) use the unrefined item, so it’s always best to check the market value of both before refining less common items – you can see the name of the refined material on the Refiner window before clicking Refine, and use that to search on the auction for that specific item.

But what does 102.03% Markup (or MU for short) really mean? Simple math: a 100 PED (in TT value) of that material will be worth 102.03 PED on the auction. If you prefer, its an increase of 2.03% over the TT value (102.03 – 100).

You’ll notice that Limited items – names ending with (L) – will also have their Market Value as a percentage. That’s because a Limited item cannot be repaired, so it makes more sense to evaluate its value as a percentage of the actual TT. Lets take the Corrosive Attack Nanochip I (L) as an example. It’s maximum TT value is 9 ped, and according to Entropedia it has 7804 total uses. The same (L) chip, at half it’s TT, will have less than half the uses remaining, as every Limited item has a minimum value at which it can no longer be used (0.26 PED in this case) so you’re paying more markup on the unusable TT value, if you buy it at the same markup as the full one. In short: Limited items are worth less markup when not at full TT value. Keep that in mind, particularly when buying – not everything that looks like a good deal actually is.

Unlimited items have their markup listed as a flat value (TT +X PED) because they can be repaired – they never lose actual value permanently, and provided it’s not sold to the Trade Terminal, every unlimited item dropped will be in the economic ecosystem for as long as Entropia exists. The result is that it’s market value is directly proportional to both it’s rarity and it’s desirability. For example, the old Modified Fast Aid Packs (FAP) that no longer drop were so efficient that they could be sold for upwards of TT +200000 PED. Yes, that’s 20 thousand US Dollars over their actual Trade Terminal value. That’s quite a bit of profit, but they were really rare, even all those years ago, and arguably worth the investment.

Unlimited items that can still be easily acquired (such as crafted weapons from the old system) aren’t worth much in Markup, since their rarity is low and their desirability is also low (only players with Professional Level 100 are able to use them effectively). The direct effect of that is that a player rarely loses money from unlimited items, unless there’s a shift in it’s rarity.

Their markup fluctuates a fair bit once they’re introduced into the system, but after a while it tends to become very stabilized, and should the item be removed from loot tables in a future patch, the value will increase. At one point, you could find Pixie armor parts every 10 minutes or so hunting low level enemies, and so they were considered TT food at the time. Now that they’re much rarer, you can get some markup for them.

What does that mean, for you as a new player? That unlimited items are, generally speaking, worth buying (provided you have the item maxed – as we’ll cover a bit further into the guide) since you’ll pay for what you use only, and if you stop using the item, you can sell it again for (as a rule of thumb) at least the same markup as you bought it for, and worth keeping and using, if you loot one. If it’s a rare item, the markup will tend to increase over time, so it’s also worth using for a while and selling when you either quit the game, or no longer have use for it.

Most likely, the first unlimited item you’ll buy in auction, as a new player, will be the Omegaton A101, a laser weapon amplifier – we’ll cover it on the Combat section. It may seem expensive, but it’s worth every penny, will save you money on the long run as it’ll make your weapons more efficient/economical, and can always be re-sold in auction for more or less the same markup as you paid for it originally. Now that we know what markup is, and how it applies to the different category of items, let’s see what options you have when selling your loot.

The first option is the Trade Terminal. (INSERT IMAGE)

When we talk about TT Value, that’s what we are talking about – how much the item is valued at when being sold to the Trade Terminal. This is the worst possible way to sell your items because, besides not getting any additional value that you could get from selling to another player (Markup), you’re also removing the item from the game’s economy. Let’s say that some pieces of Generic Leather can be, combined with other items, crafted by a tailor into a Basic Pattern Shirt and some Tailoring Remnants. The tailor sells the shirt with a little Markup, which is bought by a Colorer and Texturer, who applies some Paint Cans and Textures and sells it for a bit more markup. Finally, the shirt is bought by a hunter, who has to sell some Generic Leather at markup to pay for it. This is a very simplified view of the economy – it feeds on itself and even the simplest low-value things have a certain lifespan before they’re converted into pure PEDs. When you sell something to the Trade Terminal, it gets entirely removed from the economy, and generates nothing useful but pure PEDs for the seller – without even Markup.

It is, however, the sad reality that some items are destined to the Trade Terminal (TT Food). Their low markup, combined with low demand (and low chance of actually being sold even at low markup) means there’s just no room for them in the economic ecosystem. This happens, most notably, with all sorts of Enhancer components. The low level ones are so easy to get, and there are just so many players getting piles of ‘em constantly, that the few people who craft Enhancers can never actually use all the stock supplied by hunters, so their prices drop constantly as the supply increases, and the demand never rises enough to match up.

Now, Generic Leather, for example, has very low markup, also due to the very large supply, but it’s used up at a faster rate (lots of sales/day), so even tho the markup is really low, it’s still relatively easy to sell to other players, with some patience.

To sell to the Trade Terminal, use a Trade Terminal (obviously) and click on the SELL tab on the top-left corner of the terminal window, then drag any items you want to sell from your inventory and into the window. Some items are worth only TT value, notably Weapon Cells and BLP Packs as well as any item you’ve bought from the Trade Terminal and want to get rid of, and broken limited (L) items, since they can no longer be used nor repaired. The various creature-specific quest items from Puny creatures also fall in this category (Caudatergus and Berycled trophies). Calypso Bone Samples should be either saved up or sold to other players, people are usually buying them (latest price was 0.02 PED, or 2 PEC, each).

Before selling anything to the Trade Terminal, I’d recommend going to a populated area and offering the items at TT value. Say something like “I’m about to TT item X, anyone wants to buy it at TT price?” and wait a bit to see if anyone shows interest, before actually dumping it on the Trade Terminal. Even if you get no direct profit from doing that, you’ll be contributing to the economy getting healthier, as the ‘ripples’ from that item being actually used by a crafter or someone else will have much more of an effect on the economy than simply removing it from the economy by selling to the Trade Terminal would. There’s no need to feel guilty in selling it to the Trade Terminal if no one shows interest, tho – if you’re selling something to the TT, it means you’re in a bit of a hurry, so go ahead and do it. No real need to wait forever to sell something to another player – if it was something likely to be used, you’d get a reply quickly enough when offering it at TT value.

Keep in mind, tho, that this applies to things that have low volume of daily/weekly sales on it’s Market Info – anything with 1k PED sold/day or more, you can probably sell for some markup. This is more of a general guideline, of course, and will vary according to how long you’re willing to wait to actually sell.

The second option is the Private Trade. (INSERT IMAGE)

To trade with another player, simply right-click on their avatar and navigate to the Avatar menu, and then to Private Trade. This will open a timed request, that the other avatar will have to either accept or deny in a few seconds (ten or so), or the request will time out. It is impolite to open an unprompted trade with another avatar randomly, with the exception of the dedicated traders that you see offering to buy items on some places (notably Twin Peaks and Camp Icarus) since they expect people to trade ‘em when they’re announcing their services.

How much you can expect to get will depend on the situation, the items involved, and on both player’s negotiation skills (real-life skills). Never expect to get more than weekly (or daily) markup for an item – if it’s more expensive than buying at current prices in the Auction, there’s no reason why the buyer would pay the more expensive price.

The more volume you have (bigger stacks), the more likely you are to sell, and the more room you’ll have to negotiate a better price, but don’t expect much – always lower than current prices at auction. So, if you can sell for more at the Auction, why don’t you? Simple – as a new player, particularly if you’re on a budget, you’re unlikely to be able to really stock up on items (making bigger stacks) before running out of PEDs for ammo and repairs and having to sell.

We’ll cover that on the next chapter, but that’s the basic definition of a Cycle – how many PEDs you have to keep doing an activity with before being forced to sell stuff in order to continue doing said activitiy. The more PEDs you have to cycle, the larger your stacks will be, and there’s a minimum value that you’d need before it’s worthwhile to sell at Auction. If it’s not worthwhile to sell at Auction, you should try to sell in a Private Trade instead.

When the player accepts the trade, you’ll see a window that you’ll drag items into, and the items the other player has put up to trade as well. When both parties are happy with the trade (a private chat automatically opens when you enter a trade, so it’s easier to negotiate privately), you can click on the green “tick” button. Both players have to do that before the trade is accepted, and the red square on the window will turn green when the other side of the trade clicks the tick button on his side.

If anything is changed on the trade – either having items put in or taken out – by either side before both parties give the green light, it’ll reset to red on both sides and both have to review and accept the trade again. Before it’s finalized, a window will show up listing all items and their TT values from both sides that you can review and either accept or back out of the deal – always take the time to review a trade at this stage, even if things seemed kosher so far.

Also take note of the name of the player you’re trading with – this is particularly important when letting someone borrow one of your items. A common scam is for someone to create an avatar with a similar name to another player’s (it can never be exactly the same) and trick you into lending them an item that was intended for someone else.

The third option is the Auction, and we’ll cover here both buying and selling. (INSERT IMAGE)

This is the best option for a seller, provided that the seller has a sufficiently large stack to make the auction fee worth paying, and also the easiest way of buying items – tho not necessarily the cheapest. The auction interface is very thorough and you can do all sorts of neat stuff there.

You can search for the item’s name, you can refine the results (even if you leave the search field blank) by item type on the left side (such as items – weapons – ranged – laser carbine, for example) and sort the results by any of the columns, in ascending or descending order, by clicking on the column name.

On the top part, you’ll notice an “Orders” button – this is where you can post ‘buy’ orders, and review ‘buy’ orders posted by other players, in case you want to sell something instantly (as long as you put the item for a price equal to or lower than the one listed on the order) – it’s more of a tool for traders, most of the time the orders will pay less than market value, but handy if you’re in a hurry (hint: you should avoid putting yourself in situations that force you into hurrying anything in this game – remember, patience is key).

Back on the offers tab, the main thing you’ll do is list things by their buyout, in ascending order (lowest buyout first). Learning to ‘read’ auctions properly is key to your success in the game – for example, if an item or stack is sitting there at a given price for six days and hasn’t been bought yet, you would be wise to put your stuff for sale at a lower price, or if you’re buying, waiting until someone does – it’s a sign that the price listed is higher than what the economy as a whole agrees to pay for, or alternately, that it’s a stack far larger than what most crafters would be willing to buy, even if its cheaper per unit.

To improve your chances of selling, you’ll want to find a compromise between markup and speed of sale, proportional to stack size. So, if you have a stack of Generic Leather worth 200 PEDs, for example, you don’t need to match the markup for a stack worth 1000 PEDs, but you’d be wise to match – or slightly undercut – the markup for other stacks of similar size.

The point where its better to auction than to sell to a trader is specific to each item and changes pretty much daily but here’s a little trick to use when in doubt about which would be better: First, open the auction and click the Sell button. Search for the item you’re selling, and following the strategy above, locate the lowest buyout values for that item – make sure you’re looking at the lowest, not highest – and adjust the price of your stack to match the daily markup by clicking on the arrows. It’s just a test – you don’t want to put it up for auction yet. Now, do some quick math: the buyout value of your stack, minus the Auction Fee, will be what you’re actually getting from selling your item or stack at auction. Write that down somewhere, and look for a trader that buys the same item. Trade him and take a look at how much he’s offering – here you’re not paying auction fee, or any fee for that matter, but you’re likely selling a bit under market value. Compare his offer with how much you wrote down for the final profit from your auction, and see which is higher.

If it’s more worthwhile to auction, politely decline the trader offer on chat, explaining that it’s more worthwhile for you to auction it. Important note: Always be nice to traders, they’re providing a very needed service, particularly for new players that don’t have a lot of PEDs to cycle thru yet, and so cannot make stacks large enough to beat what traders would offer if the auction fee is considered. Many players consider ‘em the devil, as they feel the traders pay too little markup for stuff, and are therefore “ripping off” players. Quite the opposite, in fact – if you don’t have enough PEDs to keep hunting/mining until your stacks are worth auctioning, the traders are giving you profit, as you’d either lose money auctioning, lose money TTing, or be forced to deposit.

They’re simply paying less than market value because the service they’re providing is to make a lot of small stacks into a big one that will then be worth selling on auction, or using their contacts to sell those large stacks directly to crafters at market value, and they wouldn’t profit by buying at actual market value. If you think, on the other hand, that traders shouldn’t profit, there’s something seriously wrong with your worldview.

There are a few other ways of dealing with your loot – for example, player-run shops can sell items (they’re a good option if you’re buying something, often it’s cheaper than at auction – but it includes a shopping fee) but they’re a more advanced option that the average player, the ones that are likely to benefit from this guide, wouldn’t be able to afford. Yet another option would be getting acquainted with people that regularly buy something that you get a lot of, and skip the middleman, directly selling to the end user – crafters, most likely. If you’re in a society, ask around, maybe you’ll get a good deal.

Since we’re talking a lot about cycles, let’s proceed to the next chapter, where I’ll explain in detail what that means in Entropia.

Karma and You: Cycles, Runs and Returns[edit]

Core concepts of EU gameplay explained, including the ever elusive matter of "tt returns"

Zen and the art of Spreadsheet Maintenance[edit]

How to leverage free (or commercial) spreadsheet apps to better understand your returns vs. expenses

Learning to Learn[edit]

How to fully utilize the information that is already out there: Entropedia, Entropia Life, LBML maps and such

Mentors are from Mars[edit]

The social aspects of gameplay, such as Mentoring, Grouping and Events

How to survive an alien uprising[edit]

Detailed information on combat and combat skills, how to choose weapons, minimize defensive costs, beat mob regen, and more

Who Moved My Claim?[edit]

Detailed information on mining and mining skills, ore pricing, mining techniques, amps, and choosing where to mine

The Calypso DIY Handbook[edit]

Detailed information on crafting and crating skills, blueprint QL, success rates, limited blueprints, and more

How to win PEDs and Influence the market[edit]

The less popular career paths, such as trading, piloting, dedicated healing, taming, decoy dispensing, scanning, and such.

The Hitchhiker’s Guide to Calypso and Beyond[edit]

Important locations on Calypso, maps, up-to-date list of TPs and coordinates, space travel, and information about the different planets of the Universe (possibly will need collaboration for TP lists of every planet)

Calypso Teleporters[edit]

Aegis Mound(74218, 85854, 140)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Ahh... The Estophyls!(25922, 46796, 143)CalypsoAmethera10.8.0In GameYes
Akmuul Island(25131, 27315, 204)CalypsoAmetheraIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Aloode(74543, 89252, 135)CalypsoEudoriaRemovedYesYesYesYesYesYes
Amethera Outback Land 15(30998, 30006, 200)CalypsoAmethera10.8.0In GameYes
Ashi(82221, 78318, 150)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Atami's Paradise(22047, 48098, 136)CalypsoAmethera10.8.0Removed
Athena Spaceport(71633, 68190, 790)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Atlantis Archipelago(61498, 68921, 106)CalypsoAtlantis Archipelago11.5.1In Game
Atlas Haven(71671, 82343, 132)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Atum(29065, 58721, 106)Calypso11.9.5In Game
Billy's Spaceship Afterworld(62003, 80262, 156)CalypsoPort Atlantis AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Bilton Towers(33471, 47351, 105)CalypsoAmetheraIn Game
Boreas(74369, 67304, 141)CalypsoCyclops AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Calypso Gateway Teleporter(69755, 69851, 225)Calypso Gateway11.2.2Removed
Camp Caravan(87156, 89491, 223)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Camp Echidna(79516, 87859, 214)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Camp Echidna East Hangar(81002, 87523, 315)Calypso11.9.4In Game
Camp Echidna North Hangar(77876, 88976, 141)Calypso11.9.4In Game
Camp Icarus(63220, 74370, 114)CalypsoPort Atlantis AreaIn Game
Camp Phoenix(62928, 82507, 242)CalypsoCorinth AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Cape Corinth(61981, 88526, 105)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Cayuze(20173, 39714, 109)CalypsoAmetheraIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Chilled Hogglo and Maffoid(23040, 44201, 109)CalypsoAmethera11.0.8In GameYesYesYesYes
Chimera Canyons(78511, 82344, 124)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Chug's Hideout(68161, 74754, 140)Calypso11.9.4In Game
Control Room 2(69820, 70312, 289)AsteroidIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
Corinth East A(63674, 86526, 143)CalypsoCorinth Area11.9.4In Game
Corinth East B(63899, 86289, 143)CalypsoCorinth Area11.9.4In Game
Corinth West A(60811, 86630, 126)CalypsoCorinth Area11.9.4In Game
Corinth West B(61053, 86285, 133)CalypsoCorinth Area11.9.4In Game
Crystal Palace Dome 1(70264, 69346, 845)Crystal Palace Space StationIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNoNoNo
Crystal Palace Dome 2(70075, 69510, 898)Crystal Palace Space StationIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNoNoNo
Crystal Palace Dome 3(69998, 69772, 876)Crystal Palace Space StationIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNoNoNo
Crystal Palace Dome 4(70164, 69810, 905)Crystal Palace Space StationIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNoNoNo
Crystal Palace Space Station(70325, 69616, 889)Crystal Palace Space StationIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
East Scylla Mountains(75048, 72627, 174)CalypsoCyclops AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Emerald Lakes Mall(31661, 50207, 132)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Eos(71411, 69463, 339)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Eurus(73299, 75970, 211)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Ares(79952, 80209, 158)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Argus(75572, 92651, 419)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Cayuze(19724, 36415, ?????)CalypsoIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
Fort Fury(68200, 79048, 364)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Isis(66280, 75339, 135)Calypso15.10.4.139762Removed
Fort Ithaca(68527, 87953, 139)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Medusa(68643, 84356, 217)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Pandora(84781, 85241, 232)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Troy(80505, 68300, 162)CalypsoCyclops AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Fort Victoria(55201, 60158, 174)CalypsoBridge Islands12.1.3In GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
Fort Zeus(86539, 94700, 301)CalypsoEudoria15.10.4.139762In GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Genesis Amethera Headquarters(34255, 48216, 110)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNo
Half Moon Bay(63504, 89174, 105)CalypsoCorinth AreaIn Game
Honuri(80743, 91843, 327)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Isslye(85418, 91406, 330)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Jameson's Reach(35395, 60125, 251)CalypsoBridge Islands12.1.3In GameYesNoYesYesYesNoNoNo
Jason Centre(75695, 80229, 117)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Jurra Plateu(70679, 71609, 242)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Limnadian District(71250, 79094, 120)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Livas(66930, 84476, 215)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Medusa Teleporter(53269, 69358, 203)CalypsoMedusa Islands11.5.1In GameNoYesYesYesYesYes
MegaVolt Camp(59089, 84432, 198)CalypsoCorinth AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Memorial Island(22648, 32017, 125)CalypsoAkmuul-Myrene AreaIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNo
Minopolis(87453, 85086, 116)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Miwak(36239, 44088, 165)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Myrene Island(19297, 27066, 104)CalypsoAkmuul-Myrene AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Naga Island Teleporter(52260, 72158, 164)CalypsoMedusa Islands11.9.2In Game
Nate Valley(36687, 33300, 312)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Naval Station Triton(40415, 58716, 132)CalypsoBridge Islands12.1.3In GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
Nea's Place(29353, 35515, 259)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
New Oxford(33731, 47699, 119)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
New Switzerland(26335, 60840, 112)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
North Space Base(89089, 96552, 129)CalypsoEudoriaRemovedYesYesYesYesYesYes
North Space Base A(88120, 96674, 132)Calypso11.9.4In Game
North Space Base B(88577, 95644, 319)Calypso11.9.4In Game
North Space Base Docks A(88599, 94457, 282)Calypso11.9.4In Game
North Space Base Docks B(88545, 93896, 315)Calypso11.9.4In Game
Notus(66756, 70140, 162)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Nymphtown(87072, 78481, 108)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Odysseus Landing(54282, 64903, 112)CalypsoBridge Islands12.1.3In GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
Omegaton West Habitat(25662, 37648, 138)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Orthos West Mound(64089, 77115, 122)CalypsoPort Atlantis Area11.3.4In GameYesNoYesYesYesYes
Osere(81182, 72677, 144)CalypsoCyclops AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Oshiri Hearts(21811, 61326, 148)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Outpost(61254, 77036, 238)CalypsoPort Atlantis AreaRemovedYesNoNoYesYesNoNoNo
Oyster Isle(17682, 35384, 169)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Port Atlantis(61418, 75218, 143)CalypsoPort Atlantis AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Port Atlantis Mall(61626, 75188, 165)CalypsoPort Atlantis AreaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Port Atlantis Marina "New Arrivals"(61373, 75001, 104)CalypsoPort Atlantis Area11.3.4RemovedYesYesYesYesYesYes
Rei's Defence(37098, 29188, 119)CalypsoAmetheraN/A7.7In GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYesNo
Rogue Plains(78049, 96387, 128)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameNoNoNoNoNoNo
Rogue Plains East(79528, 97420, 135)Calypso11.9.4In Game
Rogue Plains West(78225, 96958, 166)Calypso11.9.4In Game
Royal Club(30187, 39714, 170)CalypsoAmethera Outback Land#23In GameYesNoYesYesYesNoNoNo
Saba Camp(17951, 46655, 114)CalypsoEudoria10.8.0In GameYesNoYesYesNoNo
Sakura City(39672, 30222, 102)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Segna Forest(18516, 44412, 176)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Shavante(37621, 39347, 134)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesNoYesYesNoNo
Shinook Jungle(27811, 50922, 183)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Shinook River(27979, 45431, 213)CalypsoEudoria10.8.0In GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Silver Ridge(33008, 37893, 563)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Solfais Crater(21304, 53841, 105)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Southern Ithaca(70852, 85745, 150)CalypsoEudoria15.10.4.139762In GameNoNoNoNoNoNoNoNo
Tetania's-by-the-sea!(35224, 26856, 112)CalypsoEudoria11.0.8In GameYesNoNoNoNoNo
The Treasure Island Castle(37087, 53135, 156)CalypsoTreasure IslandTreasure IslandIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Timbesha(31290, 43622, 337)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Treasure Island City(35141, 49846, 149)CalypsoTreasure IslandTreasure IslandIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Treasure Island North Hangar A(39350, 54830, 236)CalypsoTreasure Island11.9.4In Game
Treasure Island North Hangar B(39810, 55230, 228)CalypsoTreasure Island11.9.4In Game
Treasure Island Northern Shores(40269, 55497, 105)CalypsoTreasure IslandTreasure IslandIn GameYesNoYesYesNoNo
Treasure Island Riverside(39169, 51890, 175)CalypsoTreasure IslandTreasure Island11.0.3In GameYesNoYesYesNoNo
Treasure Island Volcanic Edge(35994, 54709, 465)CalypsoTreasure Island11.0.3In GameYesNoYesYesNoNo
Tukar(85590, 75780, 213)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Twin Peaks(77777, 76673, 163)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Twin Peaks Mall(77927, 76541, 214)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Wolverine Hope(37846, 46779, 151)CalypsoAmetheraIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Z's Little Farm(29161, 56003, 217)CalypsoAmetheraAmethera Outback Land#3210.8.0In GameYesNoNoNoNoNo
Zephyrus(69998, 66930, 150)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYes
Zychion Citadel(69478, 77402, 120)CalypsoEudoriaIn GameYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
~BIG Industries OLA 01~(34692, 36303, ?????)CalypsoEstate:Club MeatIn GameYesNoNoNoNoNoNoNo

Magical thinking and superstitions about loot[edit]

An in-depth view of superstitions and conspiracy theories, when to embrace 'em and when to ditch 'em in order to avoid costly mistakes due to them

Important Links[edit]

Links to the main sites about EU, such as PCF, the various planet official sites, entropia life, mindstar media, entropedia, etc etc, as well as a list of tools that make your life easier (LBML, EU Hunter, jdegre's chipping tool, etc)